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Fasten your boob belts! Eight trends from London fashion week

Designers presented a new lampshade look, goth got pretty and kick flares pushed out skinny jeans

The boob belt

Donatella
Belt up: Donatella Versace for her label Versus, London fashion week S/S 2017. Photograph: Alastair Grant/AP

Belts and boobs. No, not a Stereophonics B-side, but two problem areas for fashion. First, belts. The past couple of seasons have seen designers insist on anything but conventional buckling, most notably the paper-bag style (Margaret Howell) and the rope belt (Gosha Rubchinskiy). Boobs, meanwhile, continued to be celebrated and going bra-less is having a moment in Kardashian-Jenner world. Donatella Versace has tried to fix things by creating the boob belt, which she showed at her Versus show. Worn as part of a futuristic-looking outfit (bodycon trousers, tight jacket with exaggerated sleeves), the look was very Mad Max Fury Road and suggested a way to re-house any chunky 80s-style belts. PE

Plastic-surgery bandages

Backstage
Bandaged up: backstage at the Anya Hindmarch show, LFW. Photograph: Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images

The geometric Anya Hindmarch show was an Olympically precise dance of tightly choreographed winding and unwinding that resembled a synchronised swimming event. The models wore elegantly placed rolls of thick, white bandage tape around their head and neck. Some wore oversize sunglasses and the overall effect was that of a wannabe Hollywood starlet unveiling her new appearance after some career-altering face work. Were calling it Herv Lgering for the head. PE

Looking like a 70s lampshade

Mary
Out of the shade: The Mary Katrantzou show, LFW S/S 2017. Photograph: Jonathan Hordle/Jonathan Hordle/Rex/Shutterstock

Lampshading may be all the rage now (making your silhouette big at the top and smaller at the bottom) but next season it will be all about literally looking like a lampshade from the 70s. Mary Katrantzous pear-shaped silhouettes featured psychedelic prints mixed with ancient-Greek vase imagery. Add some circular perspex beading and youve got something you might fit with a 60 watt bulb at Timothy Learys Etsy store. Multi-tiered dresses (very Ikea lampshade) featured at Erdem, Henry Holland and Ryan LO, suggesting inspiration is now to be taken directly from your desk. PE

Misshaping

The
Flower power: the Preen show at LFW S/S 2017. Photograph: Estrop/Getty Images

Street casting and Instafame has meant that the catwalk has moved away from the conventional ideas of beauty into something more global. Some designers have even pushed that idea further, with traditionally ugly tropes morphing into something else. At Christopher Kane, he styled his models with wet-look mullets, and the overall effect was Frida Kahlo meets the Bloomsbury set. At Gareth Pughs dramatic and ominous show, models had liquorice strips of black lipstick and hair that was in between a crow and Medusa. Equally disturbing were the beauty elements of the occult-inspired Preen show: models wore dry pressed flowers on their lips (very Kate Bush), while sporting girlish plaits and Pentagram earrings. PE

Dance, dance, dance

Molly
Rave on: Molly Goddard, LFW September 2016. Photograph: Ben A Pruchnie/Getty Images

When one of the stalwarts of London fashion week Gareth Pugh soundtracks his finale to Sash!s 1996 Encore Une Fois you know something is up. Perhaps in response to the closure of Fabric, fashion is pulling an all-nighter and going out dancing. Pughs collection was partly inspired by the exploits of tyrannical child emperor Eliogabalo (of course it was), but it also played with the black-and-white graphics associated with chaos theory so loved by rave flyers. Also on the playlist was The Prodigy, which soundtracked AV Robertsons show. Molly Goddard, meanwhile, turned her show into a catwalk rave, with models dancing. Of course, this being fashion and not Shoom, there was far less gurning. LC

Headgear

Models
Hats on: models wear creations by Erdem at London Fashion Week, S/S 2017. Photograph: Alastair Grant/AP

Hats in fashion dont always have to mean outlandish creations worthy of Ascot. Sometimes, a bit of DIY mixed with anarchic dress-up goes a long way. See Marta Jakubowski, who re-worked coloured net into bags worn over heads, or face masks that looked like the ones worn by bank robbers at Gareth Pugh. Christopher Kane had distressed leather hats by Stephen Jones, while Erdems were a bit like the one worn by Robinson Crusoe, though probably not made of the scraps found on a fictional desert island. The takeaway? SS17 is a very selfie-friendly season. LC

Pentagrams

The
Back to black: the Preen show, London Fashion Week S/S 2017. Photograph: Giannoni/WWD/Rex/Shutterstock

Goth is enjoying something of a moment right now largely thanks to Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia and his penchant for an old Sisters of Mercy T-shirt, and the use of gothic script on hoodies. Preen took this to the next level with its collection, which featured a whole lot of black, stompy boots and lace. There was also that goth favourite the pentagram with flowers as a print on pretty chiffon frilly dresses and soft bikers. Forget Insta-models. Emily the Strange, Wednesday Addams and Elvira are the cool girls style icons this season, with Aleister Crowley and Wilkie Collins the required reading. LC

The kick flare

Kick
Kick flares at the Marques Almeida show, LFW S?S 2017. Photograph: Giannoni/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

The death knoll of the skinny jean is forever being sounded with little effect. But, judging by the fashion editors at London fashion week, there is certainly a solid contender for the skinnys replacement. Enter the kick flare basically skinny jeans with a little bounce out from the knee, typically worn cropped at the ankle with raw hems. Think Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction, rather than anyone in the 70s. The kick flare has been getting play on the catwalk as well as the front row, at Marques Almeida, Erdem and Ryan Lo, suggesting it will go into spring as well. To get it now, go to Topshop, where a pair of kick flares can be bought for 38. LC

Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/sep/20/eight-trends-london-fashion-week-designers-catwalks